interesting thread thx.

note that venting to the atmosphere is forbidden in many countries.

also in a pcv system venting to atmosphere is never a good idea.

 

IMO Radium is the best setup and for the money pretty much the cheapest option. It works based on the factory PCV system and it is incorrect to say it "Does not relieve Crank Positive Pressure while on boost." The two front catch cans are hooked to the turbo inlet as well as the valve covers. The pressure differential evacuates the block under boost. It is designed exactly how I did my setup 8 years ago. The downside of the Radium setup is they put the intake manifold PCV catch can in the brake booster area and that catch can is the one that will actually collect oil. Removing that catch can and cleaning it out is time consuming. I installed this kit on a buddy's car local and it was very well made.

 

The pressure differential evacuates the block under boost.

Hmm so I am trying to process that comment. I am under the impression that the PCV only opens when the pressure in the intake manifold is lower than the crankcase. When in the boost, the intake manifold pressure is much higher than the crankcase pressure, even when blowby is at its peak, so the PCV valve is closed. How else would the crank positive pressure be getting released? Its my understanding that in the GT-R the crankcase and value covers are separate spaces. Can someone comment on that?

 

This is an excellent write-up regarding Catch Cans in General from Radium.

Their diagram shows the crankcase and valve covers sharing connected spaces within the block. However I'm not sure the GT-R is set up that way. The PCV does not thread into each valve cover like a lot of inline cars. The PCV valve sits on top of the crankcase under the intake manifold and only feeds into the intake manifold.

Does anyone know if the crankcase and valve covers are connected and maintain the same pressure in the GT-R?

 

Does anyone know if the crankcase and valve covers are connected and maintain the same pressure in the GT-R?

They are most definitely connected via wide open internal passages. However - there are several internal baffles that serve to separate oil from the blowby gasses before it transits out via the PCV or valve cover outlets.

John-

 

These systems are like a religious war in the community -> everyone has their own better idea! Whichever system you go with either:

1. make sure it has an overflow or drain back feature
2. incorporate a religious maintenance check on the can level because it

a) Will eventually fill up​

b) will cause a huge mess when it does.​

Good Luck with your project,
John-

 

My two cents, look at James240's thread and add in the oil filler neck to one of the cans making it a 4 port system.

Also if going with Radium, you could always tap the bottom of the PCV can and connect a oil hose with a drain cock so draining would be easier.

 

Just to wrap up my catch can project, I ended up going with the Radium Triple Catch Can solution. It seemed to retain the stock functionality and pressures while providing the most filtering. I also install the Radium petcock drain on the PCV catch can that goes in with brake booster. The petcock valve is near the bottom and zip-tided up just inside the under panel where it breaks from the front section.

I did need to reroute my vacuum line for my FI Exhaust. It still functioned but the Catch Can in the brake compartment was kinked a bit more than I wanted. So I re-routed that vacuum line through the same hole that was used for the catch can hoses.

 

Add in the oil filler neck ( it's easy to do) and you have a 4 port set up.

 

What part(s) did you order for that?

 

Try this thread.

DIY700 - 700hp on a Budget

I purchased my 2009 GTR Premium (~5,600 miles) 3 weeks ago from a buddy of mine and have been accumulating parts for my build. The car came with a Cobb catless midpipe and Cobb V2 Accessport. I have been fabricating and tuning for ~16 years and do most of my work in the garage. You can check...

www.gtrlife.com

 

^
Most of the original picture links got broken because the server host slightly changed their name so I'd have to go back and create new links. I used the following from a Honda because at the time my wife had a Honda and the oil cap was the same thread as the GTR. This one will probably work...

BILLET ALUMINUM VACUUM SCAVENGER OIL CAP HONDA CIVIC CRX ACCORD PRELUD

 

My two cents.

I think oil catch can market is a very large scam. Oil catch can itself is quite useful, but no matter how expensive the system is, the basic principle is always avoiding pressure air in crank from entering intake or intake manifold directly, which is horrible to the forced induction system.



I have both a 14 evo and a 16 gtr. Both of them share the same setup. I use a silicone end cap and a hose clamp to block the inlet port on the intake manifold, and route both outlet ports to the oil catch can, and the outlet port of the oil catch can to the inlet port before the turbo charger.



The catch cans themselves are no branded ones on Amazon for some 20-30 buckets, I chose two inlets one outlet versions with right size. I modified them a little bit, like adding steel wool, and use pcv hose from o Reilly and commonly available braces from hardware store.

They look less pretty than the high end ones with several hundreds price tag. But they work just fine and can catch a full can in some 2k miles or so.

The only difference between these two setups is that I installed a drain port for gtr right next to the oil drain plug. So I can do the maintenance altogether with draining the catch can. For the evo, I always remove the can body from the car to drain it.



So the setup avoids introducing high pressure to the cheap cans or hoses, the pressure is usually lower than the atmosphere. And I do not need to worry about the pcv failures anymore, they can wide open permanently.

 

the cheap can do nothing. just an empty box.

have a look on the internals of a radium or mishimoto

 

Only thing useful in the can is the steel wool or something similar.

 

Just to confirm, the boost logic AN fitting on the oil filler neck is sized at 8AN and not 10AN? it looks really bigger than 8AN from the pictures…..

 

I don't understand how the fuck the boost isn't going up that little black hose and into valve covers when boosting it's crazy..

I am in need of the radium setup I get oil in both my intercooler pipes.

 

I thought it would need a check valve to prevent air flow in wrong direction

 

Check valve is on the intake manifold, which is where you attach the pcv line

 

Hey mate, the hose connected to the inlet before the turbo has negative pressure and the hose connected to the valve covers has positive pressure (if anything). That's assuming you don't just vent to atmosphere and actually recirc to your inlets.

 

The hose connected to where the inlet is near the turbo I thought that would be positive pressure when your boosting though

 

Nah, it's on the suction/inlet pipe which connects to the front of the turbo.

If you get the 3rd catch can that radium offer, that catches the oil under vacuum conditions, so that goes in the pcv line. I have the 3 and the PCV can is the only one that catches oil. My motor is stock, however. Once built, that will probably change.

 

Fair enough, I seem to get alot of oil in my intercooler pipes. I assumed it's from running 22psi of boost and having the hp and torque that I've got. Thought I must be getting excess blow by and it's venting out valve covers and into near the turbo n down into intercooler pipes.

I didn't go with radium because they have green bits on them and my engine is powder coated colours that don't go well with green haha so I've chosen a gold top secret catch can.

Because I am rebuilding my engine I may not get as much blow by but we will see.

 

It depends how the oil got into the pipes. It was either blow by or bad turbo seals. I would assume you will build with looser clearances due to the forged internals and higher hp application which will mean a little more blow by, at least prior to full operating temp. Nothing to be overly concerned about, but you don't want to exactly replicate OEM gaps and clearances.

 

I don't think it was my turbo seals because they were just both redone at GCG turbos and had less then a tank of petrol on them

Okay then I'll to pay attention to the gap clearances.. sux the clearances increase with forged materials

 

I used to run a Buschur Catch Can in my last GTR. (Both valve cover vents and engine oil neck vent) and still found a very light oil coating on IM and upper IC pipes.

My new GTR has the Boost Logoc can installed with 4 areas vented. Upon disassembly it is dry as a desert on all internal parts.

 

Oh ok cool, where is your 4th vent coming off the block?
Does the boost logic can ever have much in it?

 

for the guys running the boostlogic, are you running the recurculation kit? looking to switch over from my T1R AOS

 

No, I’ve found some nasty stuff in the can. Also it doesn't reliably get back to the oil pan

 

Placing my order for the Radium system.. whatever James 240z suggests, i'll go for it

 

Oh BOY! That's a lot of pressure.

 

Hey Everyone, So i stumbled upon this thread after looking into changing my Old GOTBoost Catch can setup ( Really good setup by the way ) and decided to go the route that OP and many others here went, I got the 3 Catch can Radium setup but i added an additional Oil Neck filler Port and tapped it to one of the Catch cans up front, Ill do a write up and pictures soon, not sure to Hijack this thread or start a new one.