I wish I could help, but my japanese is old.

To me that is saying "Prepare to pay through your ass to fix this"

I wish you the best.

 

In the 350Z's the cause of that warning light was a failure (or deliberate unplugging) of the yaw module. It looks like something got knocked loose or one of the g-sensors failed.

 

Hello all.

Been seeing the VDC off and the car with the slip marks plus the triangle warnings on my display for a day or so now. Here's a documentation of what's been going on.

Saturday about 1700 - use the LC to launch. Loads of fun. Then drove about 40 kms to get home, parked and went home. At about 730 or so, left to go to restaurant. Parked there - had food, came back at about 930 and the VDC Off light lit up.

Got back home, next morning took the car out - and the light didnt come on. Came back and as I was parking the car, the light came on. Left it at that.

Next morning (monday), took the car to work - no light. In the evening on the way home, the light comes on. and it has stayed on since. There is a warning message in Japanese on as well which looks like this:

Anyone got any clues to what's happening? According to whatever information I have been able to gather - some fail safe system's been activated due to an error in either the hill start assist or the VDC. The car is running fine, braking fine - no issues apart from these lights coming on.

Thanks
Timechaser

It could be as simple as low brake fluid, or a wheel sensor even, I thought I remember you having
access to a consult 3 hook that bad boy up.

 

Wish you had a GST to pull the code(s). VDC + Slip is indicative of several possible failures -- be glad it's not one of the failures that also dumps you into limp mode. With the VDC + Slip, it is probably not related directly to the VDC. Since it looks like it's happening when the car is a bit hotter -- afternoons and after being parked briefly, it may be related to engine temp or temp sensors -- just enough to give you a transient kicking the lights, but not enough to kick in limp. We'll only know for sure if you can pull the DSTs.

Turning the engine off will usually kick the light show off until the engine picks the transient up again and turns the lights back on. As it starts increasing in frequency, it's indicative of probable impending failue, and eventual limp mode possibility increases. I'd pull the codes as soon as possible before the GT-R turns into a F-O-R-D (found on road dead).

Spirited driving, particularly with high rev downshifts can also kick a VDC + Slip transient. In this case, the throttle position sensor gets momentarily confused and tosses a brief odd voltage on the line that the ECM reads as an error. Gotta love drive by wire cars when you get a voltage transient on a line and end up with Forest Gump's box of chocolates.

 

Tere/stealerhip/ everyone else Thanks a lot for your comments - most helpful.

A friend's wife reads japanese and this translates to - "VDC system is malfunctioning. Please check at the next service center immediately"

Stealership - dont have the Consult yet. Only the box, no GTR card... it is effing difficult to get one of those... and it aint me, but a friend in malaysia who has acquired one.

Thanks for the replies. I am going to pull the codes off (DTC on the GTR?) and look in the service manual to see what they represent. Will check the yaw sensor/wheel sensor. could be anything. Tried to reset the tyre pressures, but that didnt cure this. And this happens at all temperatures - not transient anymore. My temperatures (according to the MFD) are perfectly in the normal range so that's not the case certainly.

From whatever I have gathered from the manuals - something's given the ghost - and this is a fail safe mode which has been activated. Will not harm the car though.

Will check the brake fluid first - thanks for the suggestion stealership. Will check the yaw/g-sensors as well. Lets see what it throws up. Keep you guys posted.

Cheers
TC

 

timechaser... you must put a computer on there, doesn't have to be a be a consult 3, just a generic OBD II reader and get the C-code (Cxxxx error code). Of you can use a consult II that may work too. There are a number of systems that feed into the VDC that could generate an error. Specifically:
- steering angle sensor
- front wheel sensors
- rear wheel sensors
- abs actuator
- yaw/side/decelerate G sensor

So troubleshooting this without a code could be a wild goose chase.

Are the ABS light or Brake warning light or VDC OFF light or SLIP light on as well? These would be in the instrument cluster. If any of those are also on, that could help narrow down the issue to a specific sensor

If not, then most probably what might have happened during your LC is that you kicked off a specific sensor and something was recorded on the ECU and it just needs to be reset (this may also be done without a Consult III using a generic OBD II reader, if that reader seees the appropriate Cxxxx code, that is). There is a warning of this exact same condition in the service manual under sudden jerk movements, etc.

I assume you have tried to turn off the car and you have tired cycling the VDC button though all of its setting and restoring it to normal while on a level surface and driven it smoothly with no luck.

Put an OBD II reader on it asap and let me know the error code.

 

d-pak. Thanks a LOT for that. Going to meet up with alfcanada in a couple of hours - he is one of Cobb tuning's accessport beta testers here. The Accessport can pull the code out.

Since you ask, the Slip light AND the VDC OFF light are lit alongwith the triangle which is the master warning light. From my computations/permutations - think the issue is with the hill start assist, but need the code to confirm that. Lets see what it comes out with.

Fingers crossed it is - as you say - just a sensor which was kicked up and the code's been recorded. Bummer about it is that the code has been intermittent initially and is stuck on only now.

Will post my experiences here definitely.

 

Right - got the codes out and they are a true motley crew. Here they are:

Code B2562: Low voltage to the body control module. Indicates less than 8.8 volts for more than 120 seconds.

Code B2603: Intelligent key system - shift position status. BCM detects the followings status for 500 ms or more when shift is in P position, and ignition switch is in the ON position. P/N position signal (from TCM): approx. 0 V / Control device (detention switch): approx. 0 V

Code B2607: Steering Lock Relay - BCM detects that there is a difference between the following statuses. Steering lock unit ON signal transmitted by IPDM E/R, The steering lock unit status feedback

That's what I have from the codes and the service manual (the descriptions). None of these relate to the VDC per se, so why would the VDC off light be coming on? Just a BCM error thrown?

Perhaps it just needs clearing... going to try my luck with that today.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Humorous ones should be highlighted in blue to prevent confusion

 

Hmm...rather interesting, none of those are Cxxx codes so really nothing related to the VDC system. Clear those codes out and see if the condition clears itself. If any of those Bxxx codes were critical, they would have a "check engine/ MIL light displayed". After you clear the codes, you can also try to disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery for 5 mins (some say 30 mins) and see if that clears the VDC error, at the least that will force a system recheck (transmission and VDC) upon battery reconnection and it may clear the error.

Since the slip light and VDC light are also on, I venture toward one of the tire senors being out of whack. I would ask you to disconnect and reconnect each of the 4 tire senors (refer to my earlier attached diagram to physically find them #6 and #10) WHILE you have the battery disconnected. (THIS IS IMPORTANT, OTHERWISE YOU WILL THROW MORE ERRORS IN THE ECM). Also look carefully at each of the sensor wires, it may be possible that one of the connectors is loose or a stone/object may have knocked onto one sensor or its connecting wire. Re-seat each connector before you connect the battery back.

Let me know how that goes. When I get back from work tonight, I shall do a little more digging around for a more through diagnosis procedure.

 

Thanks d-pak. I am going to take it into a workshop which just about know their way around the car. I guess my order of business is going to be

1. Get the codes cleared
2. Check the terminal voltage on the battery (just in case)
3. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for 5 mins (this usually pops up the hood light for some reason, but that can be cleared)
4. See how it goes...

Thanks for your help. I cannot figure out at all how this might have happened! Lets see.

Thanks again.

 

Ive had a hybrid come in with these same codes stored in ecu, it was @ the local rental yard for a long time, the battery had died. your 1st code has to do with voltage your other ones with the i key. Were you able to check dtcs in all systems or just engine. If you had a can code stored in the abs control unit with these other codes it would probably indicate a failed abs control unit, just these
codes perhaps low voltage, make sure to load test that battery. Sorry this is all speculations
with the car not being here but these are things ive seen happen consistantly with other cars. Let me know what happens.

 

Thanks. I checked the CAN system - no codes or errors in there, everything working fine. The system I used to check the codes can check all codes so no issues there. Will be taking to a workshop for further testing.

Funny thing about the battery - have had the car for over 1000 miles, but issues now?

 

got another code - c1142

abs wheel speed sensor...

 

C1142 - Pressure Sensor signal line is open or shorted, or pressure sensor is malfunctioning.

Check the following:
1. Stop lamp operation - When you press on the brake pedal do the stop lights light up? If not, replace switch
2. Check all harnesses and connectors to stop lamp switch (switch on the brake pedal that detects you pressed it), check all connectors to master cylinder, and brake booster as well.
3. Check ABS Actuator (need Consult II or III for this, as there is a diagnostic on that) Pressure when pedal is depressed should be between 0-200bar, otherwise 0 when released.

At least you are getting closer to the issue. Is the VDC error message still on the dash?

 

Yup - the VDC error message is still on the dash. Managed to clear out the other two codes though.

I got the Phoenix V2 kit installed a while back - that's the one which lights up all 4 tail lights. That somehow integrates to the stop lamp circuit as in the JDM cars, the stop lamp is the middle ones while the outer ones are the lit-up night lights. Could this be a cause? Would be bizarre though - coz the thing was installed about 2 weeks before this happened! I guess sometimes takes time.

Will check the brake circuit out first. Try to remove the phoenix kit and check. If it works, then voila!

Thanks d-pak! Invaluable information. I have my fingers crossed that it is somewhere in the brake lamp assembly and NOT the ABS actuator.

 

Wow! First of all...d-pak!!!! Crazy amounts of great technical information you've provided here. Props to you for being so informative and helpful to another owner.

Secondly...if it does turn-out to be the Phoenix kit, that adds proof to the myth that the electronics are VERY sensitive on this car. I'm glad you're getting closer to the issue timechaser. I hope this gets it resolved.

 

Arch - I need no proof. The electronics on this car ARE very sensitive. Would strongly recommend against anything but the basic bulb upgrades!

Going to check the V2 kit first, i.e. the stop lamps. The wiring diagram shows that the stop lamp circuit has the rear lamps as a part so it might be causing some sort of irritation to the circuit. Dont know exactly what. Otherwise, down to the switch itself!

Seriously wondering - if something does go wrong, will Nissan give me the part to fix it!!!

 

Maybe something finally gave in the V2 kit. Take it out and then reset the codes and see what happens. What is the V2 kit hooked up to? I'm assuming it just powers up through the brake wire in the back. Power and ground???

 

I would assume so, yes. The kit ensures that all 4 lights light up at night as opposed to just the outer two. The inner two are the brake lights as per the JDM spec.

I will take it out tonight and try to get this code cleared... report back to you when that's done! Any way of checking whether the issue is resolved or not?

Cheers
TC

 

You mentioned previously that you had a low voltage indication for some sensor. If the tail-light upgrade turns on a bunch of extra lights, that means you are drawing more current and dropping the expected circuit voltage. This is probably what initiated the codes related to voltage. If you maybe sat for a while holding the brake, this could have happened.

This then may have caused a chain-reaction fo error codes or something haha.

 

As I told you TC, I was told Phoenix V1 lights are known to throw master check lights with sometimes VDC codes. But I'm not too sure if V2 still does that. It is not suppose to.

Are you sure you got the V2 ones? Try it out tonight and let us know. Are you using Alfian's accessport to reset the codes?

 

Fredzy - that is not as preposterous as you make it out to be. Might just well be what happeend.

First - I have the V2. Plenty of other people are running the V2 without any issues, mine might be an isolated case. Can you find out/point me in the direction of what exactly happened with the V1? What kind of VDC codes were thrown? If there were VDC codes then this is most likely my issue too.

Need to get it uninstalled and then the error light reset!

 

Glad to help. I really hope it's the lights. If I was a betting man, I would say 25% chance it's the light wiring mod. The alternative is a bad, or if you are lucky a miscalibrated, pressure sensor:

Some background:
"TCS controls electronically controls engine torque, brake fluid pressure, and A/T gear position to ensure the optimum slippage ratio at drive wheels by computing wheel speed signals from 4 wheel sensors. When the ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) detects a drive wheel spin at drive wheels (rear wheels), it compares wheel speed signals from all 4 wheels. At this time, LH and RH rear brake fluid pressure is controlled, while fuel is cut to engine and throttle valve being is adjusted to reduce engine torque by the control unit. Further more, throttle position is controlled to ensure the optimum
engine torque."

A lot of the VDC/ABS/TCS diagnosis and troubleshooting steps point towards performing a pressure sensor recalibration or a g-sensor recalibration, followed by an error code reset to see if it comes back. Unfortunately this recalibration can only be done by the Consult III. It may be possible that during your Launch Control one of the brake fluid pressure sensors reported too low and too high a value value that stuck and as a result it just needs to be zeroed out (similar to zeroing a bathroom scale).

I am not pointing to a bad sensor just yet as that may require changing the entire ABS control module. :-(

Try to get access to a Consult III if the brake light wiring mod reversal doesn't solve it. Next step would be a recalibration. And I really hope tit stops there.

By the way did you check the wiring under each wheel that I pointed out earlier?

All I can say is that must have been a spectacular LC.

 

It was quite a launch, must admit. No consult III in this country that can read a GTR so will have to live with whatever is happening.

Keeping fingers crossed it is the lamp!

Lets see.

Cheers
TC

 

Right - took off the phoenix kit. Couldnt hook it up to the Scanman though. Probably monday now.

Wondering if it might make sense to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. Worst case???

 

worst case...you lose trip A,B info and radio presets.

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